Hawaiian Paradise: The Big Island

 

As we approach the big island from Maui, we can see the smoke in the atmosphere, from the erupting volcano in the distance. This feels different already.

We land at Kona Airport. I am amazed at how much of the airport is open air. After picking up our car, we head out to the timeshare.

It feels like we landed on the moon. The lava fields are out of this worldly! Mile after mile of dark black rocks with some wild grasses growing in between. As we head down the road, we pass small developments and winding roads that lead to beaches along the shore. After checking into our room, we check out the resort. It is located on a cove on the coast. Beautiful beach with lapping waters. Between the hotel grounds and the beach is a preserved wetland area called Ku’ualii Fishpond.  It is full of eels and small fish as well as a sanctuary for tropical birds. Surrounding the fishpond are ruins from the original inhabitants of the island.

 

Waking up the next day, we are greeted by a fine cloud of volcanic ash. This begins to dissipate as we head out for Kona towards the famous Kona Coffee plantations. We have chosen the Greenfield Plantation as our stop today. Beautiful location on the slopes overlooking the Kona coast. The volcanic ash cloud is thicker hear since we have headed south towards the erupting volcano. As we wait for the next tour, we do a coffee tasting. Various blends including dark roast, single bean variety and blends. The tour begins. We are taken into the fields were the trees are. They show us trees that are over 100 years old.

The tour guide is from the industry. She owns her own trees and sells the beans to Greenfield. They roast the beans, package, market and sell them. This is common for many of the smaller plantations and farms in the Kona area that don’t have the resources to handle all aspects of the coffee marketplace.

An unexpected highlight was the presence of a pair of chameleons. We did see one but the other disguised itself so well we never did find it!!  Some coffee beans to take back home.  We head to find the “Painted Church”.

Driving down the road, we pass a number of coffee plantations. Through twists turns and sharp lefts, we locate the church. Off the beaten path and on a back road, the time was well worth it. The church is a beautiful modest wood structure from the outside. Once inside, you are overwhelmed by the simple beauty of the painting of this reflective location.

Back on the road, we dine locally tonight.

Our next day, after quality pool and beach time, brings us on a sunset dinner tour along the Kona coast.  We head down over to Kona and board our ship. We sail away through the inlet and then up the coast. We see beautiful cliffs, caves, and then arrive at the Captain Cook memorial. Here is where we anchor for dinner. As the sun moves across the sky, we enjoy a buffet of local dishes. We head out back to port as the sun begins to set. Not like sunsets we have seen in the past, this is enveloped in the haze of volcanic smoke and ash creating a surreal yet beautiful overlay to the fantastic Hawaiian sunset.

Good Morning, this next day brings us to what will be the most exciting of all our days in Hawaii, the helicopter ride. We are up early to catch a 6:20 am bus to bring us to the heliport. After much discussion and research, we realized that the only way we were to get close enough to the erupting volcano was via a helicopter ride. This was really going outside of our comfort zone. But we were not leaving the big island without seeing lava. After arriving at the pad, we were fitted with our safety gear and weighed. This is used to balance where we are placed on the helicopter.  We then get a safety briefing and introduced to our pilot. He is a retired Black Hawk pilot. This makes us feel significantly safer. We are loaded on to the helicopter one by one and strapped in.

Here we go. With the blades whirling, we start to ascend. Well this is really cool and not scary at all. The pilot tells us more about his background and advises that he always has a back-up escape route. We head up over the mountains on our way to the Hilo side of the island. To our right, we see Mauna Lea, below us farm land with grazing cattle and sheep. To the left, clouds with a hint of the ocean beneath.

We head higher into the low clouds then emerge on the other side of the mountain range and see Hilo below us. In the distance we see the billowing clouds of smoke and ash from the erupting volcano. As we near the volcano, the pilot heads towards the coast line. We swing out over the ocean and then he brings us back to the coast line. Below us we see smoke from where the lava is reaching the ocean. The hot molten lava hitting the cool ocean waters creates toxic smoke. We are far enough above it so we are not in danger, however, the area below is restricted for dangerous fumes. What is fascinating is that new land is being created below as we watch. Hawaii is one of the few places on earth that is actually growing larger due to volcanic flows.

 

We now fly toward the volcano. As we get closer, the orange glow grows bigger. We are now just at the edge of the safety area. The eruption is intense and is flowing like a broken water spicket. From above, you can see where the lava is flowing to the sea. It has created a river of lava, the top layer dark from cooling but below, a strong current of the molten stuff.  The lava river begins to flow underground before it re-emerges just before it hits the ocean and makes Hawaii bigger.

 

 

After several fly overs to ensure all get views, we head back towards Hilo airport. We land for a short break and then back up into the sky.  Now we head along the coast. We pass by cliffs, rock formations and waterfalls. Oh! the waterfalls. The pilot takes us into a valley and right up near the highest waterfall we have seen today. Hovering for us to enjoy and always reminding us that he has an escape route.  Its time to head back to base, we fly up to the top of the island and then begin our descent back and land at the heliport.

Our last day in Hawaii has us looking for Macadamia Nut pancakes which we find at a small off the beaten path restaurant. We head up the coast to see the King Kamehameha statue and to visit the little towns along the north coast. Much quieter here. You feel like you are experiencing the real Hawaii.

 

As we head home, we savor in the great Hawaiian experiences we had. The beaches, the sunsets, the food, the rainbows, the lava, the waterfalls and all things Hawaiian. We cannot wait for our return